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DrSmithDVM

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About DrSmithDVM

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  1. My name is John. And I'm a Bulbdog Breeder.

    Nice, I've only done a couple rounds so maybe soon I can step it up a little bit.
  2. My name is John. And I'm a Bulbdog Breeder.

    Here's some pictures: My two pairs of Christmas bulbdogs, males in hats Results of Christmas breeding just for fun And this is why I haven't done a whole lot recently, my FPS at my base just completely tanked: So far no successful stat inheritance.
  3. My name is John. And I'm a Bulbdog Breeder.

    Those are really good. I decided to stop searching for higher levels after I got the 4 Christmas ones. I would love to improve the P1 health. I haven't really compared them yet. I did notice that when driving a paracer the range on a low level dog is not enough to affect the Nameless attacking your feet. Screenshots will be uploaded soon. Thanks. I hope I can share some successes.
  4. Hello there. I'm a generically named Human with a Steam name that no one likes. And I'm a bulbdog breeder in PvE. Who knew? This is essentially my info dump on the progress I'm making with stats and mutations and what not. I've seen plenty of videos about it, but no one really gives the boring details with a goal in mind. I'm going full on hardcore boss-rex breeding here...with bulbdogs. I've made plenty of breeding mistakes back in Legacy and Aberation kinda gives a fresh, clean slate since nothing can transfer in. I haven't tested transferring dinos from Ab to Ab, so maybe that is a thing that can make these more available. For now, this particular bulbdog breeding line will only be available on....insert server name here. Ask for John (there are otters too, but give me a bit). The Numbers I am starting with thirteen bulbdogs: 3 males, 6 females and then 2 additional Christmas color pairs. All the males have the superior stats unintentionally but it allows me to just use 6 random females. HP Capacity Regeneration Range Speed Food Male 1: 957 920 491 238 230 2212 Lvl 184 Male 2: 1015 680 782 343 230 2364 Lvl 206 Male 3: 1044 848 582 302 230 1852 Lvl 169 Fem 1, Fem 2, Fem 3, Fem 4, Fem 5, Fem 6 The Master Pair This is the culmination of all that taming and shoving of mushrooms. Science calls it the P1 generation. I will call them Male 5 and Fem 10. The goal is to get the highest of all the stats on one dog and have a male and female that are exactly the same with similar Christmas colors. To be more specific: Male 5: 1044 920 782 343 516 Christmas color Level? Fem 10: 1044 920 782 343 516 Christmas color Level? I got this idea from TagBackTV on YouTube. He does great mutation breeding videos. When stats are identical, it is much easier to see the mutations and I supppose it does decrease the chance of the mutation getting dropped. Even if just for purely organizational reasons, I feel like it is a good idea. Step One Male 2 mates with Fem 1 through Fem 6, in two separate breedings of 3 each, just a couple minutes apart. Three babies at a time is much easier to deal with. So far I have only had them whelp outside on solid ground and not a foundation just to be safe. Goal = Fem 7: 782 343 (only a female with these stats will be kept) I chose to mate the dog with 2 desirable stats first just to get it out of the way. Step Two Male 1 mates with Fem 7. Goal = Fem 8: 920 782 343 (only a female with these stats will be kept) step Three Male 3 mates with Fem 8. Goal = Male 4 or Fem 9: 1044 920 782 343 (whichever happens first) Step Four Goal: Christmas color, low food. This is the tricky color and low food part I am playing around with while I still work on Step One. Stay tuned for more info. Breeding with a low level food dog will give me more mutations before I hit the 450 level cap. I plan to not ever breed a dog above 375 or so. Starting lower leaves more room for extra levels. Weight is a stat that is so similar I won't bother trying to lower it. Step Five Breeding Male 4 or Fem 9 with Christmas+Food. Goal = Male 5 and Fem 10: 1044 920 782 343 516 Christmas color Will I make it happen? Only time will tell. The Next Generation Geneticists call it the F1 generation. It would mean I got a mutation. Again I give credit to TagBackTv for this process. Kudos to him for understanding the mutation system and explaining it. As soon as said mutation has occurred, I will breed the male or female F1 with the opposite gendered P1 dog. It is also important to "dispose" of mutations that occur before the P1 generation has been created, they both need to be 0/20 on both sides. The Song That Never Ends.... After every subsequent mutation on the desired stats, I will mate that new dog back with the P1, and so on and so forth. I will stop when the babies start to pop out at lvl 375. Nursing Care Gestation: 4 hours 10 minutes. Waiting period between breeding cycles: 1 day, 12 hours, 20 minutes. So far, I've noticed that they tend to eat about 3 meat every 5 minutes. I have been successful in leaving them alone with a full inventory of meat for about 1.5 hours at a time and completely letting them go at 6.5% maturation. They can hold enough meat to get them to 10% at that point. I will do more testing at 5% with cooked meat. They seem to mature about 1% every 30 minutes and my math skills lead me to believe the total maturation is 2 days and 2 hours. Luckily with 94% of that fairly low maintenance trough feeding. Personal History "Why?" you ask? Long story short: I play ARK on a 5-year-old gaming laptop with obvious graphics and processor shortcomings (think Nintendo64-ish look). But I love the game: 2100+ hours and counting. However, Aberation just does not run well for me at all. I literally have to stare at the ground when running to get up to 6-8 fps and there's still almost 700 ms of latency to deal with. Ragnarok is like a vivid VR dream compared to this. I love the map though, and I love ARK, and I gotta play it. This has led me to decide to be a base-dwelling hermit breeder who rarely ventures out except to tame more bulbdogs and otters. Thanks for reading and stay tuned for updates and completely non-aggressive, informational discussion.
  5. I agree. With the way this year has gone for them, Wildcard should just admit their mistake. They deserve the money since they fulfilled all the requirements of the contest. In my other post I was referring to a comment by Denchy that Pbot had already gotten a message from Jen, followed by a vague "FeelsBadMan" in a weird context.
  6. The guy who posted this particular video did not show the server. His teammate, Pbot, did show it at the beginning: EU Official Abberation 231. Looks like Rockwell gets confused by the rock drake cloaking. It's crazy how little damage they took. Judging by the comments on the video, I would guess they're not getting prize money for this run.
  7. How do I get a wyvern

    If it really only takes 3 minutes, then no, you shouldn't need any milk. Using the passive healing of a daeodon does work, so you could have one of those close by with some troughs full of meat just in case that 3 minutes is a massive miscalculation.
  8. You Can Raise A Wyvern on Official Without Milk

    Back when I originally posted this, it seemed like every other day there was a new post asking if it was possible to raise a wyvern without milk. The goal with the title was to hopefully make it pop up in an average search and avoid seeing the same conversation repeated over and over again. I think we all agree that getting milk is easier than trying to keep a wyvern alive without milk. I have yet to fully test the AFK method, but it's coming soon. If anyone has had success with the Daeodon method please feel free to share.
  9. Bee Taming.. Tips?

    I've found it's much easier and less dangerous on Ragnarok. There are hives all over the map anywhere with big permanent rocks. The ground level/mesh is usually kinda screwed up and she doesn't fly as high. My full checklist of stuff: Clear the area of all dinos and bushes that you can. Wear ghillie and use bug spray. I go prone to avoid all the drones she spits out, they can't hit you and eventually die. Follow her around while prone. She slows down every time she makes more drones. I've tried building a taming pen around a hive, but the queen aggros much easier and the taming option disappears. The usual fixes don't help (leaving render distance, etc) until she is free from the pen.
  10. QUESTION: Why do you choose Official?

    Longevity would be the best way to describe it. I play Official because my unofficial experience included having the server wiped every few weeks, changing maps multiple times, mods having compatibility issues and stuff disappearing, and servers having long down times (which didn't seem to be an issue on Official until this summer.) I enjoyed the increased rates of unofficial but the other stuff overshadowed that and now I'm just used to Official rates and it's not a big deal. I appreciate the fact that Official Legacy servers have players, buildings, and dinos that have been there for 2 years.
  11. You Can Raise A Wyvern on Official Without Milk

    Yeah, I think we all agree that it's much easier to just get the milk. I will be trying out the online AFK method and see if it works. I'm pretty sure it only kicks you if the server is over 90% full, which is not a problem on my server.
  12. You Can Raise A Wyvern on Official Without Milk

    Oh yeah, I didn't think about that. So in PVP, do you think logging out would still work? If I AFK in a chair, I'm still at the mercy of the server and my internet connection. Neither of them is 100% reliable.
  13. So, I've seen some posts about using a pig to heal babies. I've raised wyverns with milk before, as part of a tribe. I've wanted to try one solo without milk. So I'm on Official Legacy PVE, and I used the 2X maturation weekend to give it a go, and here's what happened: Setup: 2 x ice wyvern eggs (25 and 175), Daeodon (480 weight full of cooked meat), 4 feeding troughs full of cooked meat (1800 meat each) First Test - Level 25 egg I used the hands-off approach for this one. After it hatched, I waited around for the first imprint. Of course it was milk, so I decided to turn the pig on and log off for the night. If it died, no big deal. If it lived, I'm a genius. An interesting thing I haven't noticed before: by the this time the food had dropped to zero, health was decreasing, AND torpor was actually increasing, but only by a smidgen, not enough to worry about, maybe like 40 points an hour. I logged in the next morning, maybe 9 hours later, and it had died of course. Only one trough was empty, so it seemed like the pig tried to heal it, and according to the tribe log it lived maybe another 2 in-game days. Second Test - Level 175 egg I knew the second one would be worth a little more work. First two imprints were taking a walk, thank goodness. The food ran out in between the first and second imprint time. My strategy here was to stay in render range and see if the pig would heal it more often, and it was pretty often. It barely lost more than a few hundred health. This was obviously wasted food. So I turned off the pig and started to fill the troughs again and keep an eye on the health and torpor. Like before, torpor was negligible. It seemed to be losing about 1200 to 1600 health an hour (maybe server lag caused the difference?), so I would turn the pig on about every 90 minutes to heal it again. It would heal up all the way in just a minute or so. I eventually got tired and needed to at least take a nap. So after the fourth imprint (they were all taking a walk, which was really rare for me), I set an alarm for the next, turned on the pig, and took a nap. My hope was that since it had more health, maybe it would stay alive longer. Unfortunately, it also died, one in-game day before I got back in for the imprint. The last maturation percentage I saw was 30%. Conclusions Most important of all, I believe it is possible to raise a wyvern on official without milk. If used every 90 minutes, the daeodon will heal it enough to keep it alive and the torpor increase due to starving is minimal. The problem is the frequency at which it needs to be healed. The level 175 only took a few hours to die. It would be an Ironman-like effort to do solo for sure. There are also some other variables that need to be looked at further. Observations 1. Getting milk is definitely a lot easier, even if you have to trade for it. 2. I didn't know torpor on dinos increased after food hit zero (obviously it does on players). 3. When using the staggered daeodon healing every 90 minutes or so, cooked meat is not as necessary. Raw meat should work just fine. Cooked meat gives you an extra 600 meat per trough with a longer spoil timer, but it's a lot more work, even with two industrial grills. 4. There were some weird things going on with the daeodon and its food levels. Sometimes it seemed like the food would drain completely, it would stop healing, and it wouldn't eat unless I left render distance and came back. Questions 1. If I went AFK instead of completely logging off, would the pig heal more effectively? 2. Does the food level of the pig glitch out and that was why the wyverns died? 3. Would anyone actually do this on official rather than just using milk? There's some ARK science for ya.