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A few questions, hopefully a better understanding


Ice1089

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Hello all and thank you in advance for humoring an old person for asking fairly noob questions.

 

1. In chat I see comments like Boss Rex, or Boss Rex Eggs for sale?  Aren't these just high level Rex's? Is there something special about them that would deem the term "Boss"?

2. I have seen people mention mut (type of dino)? Are they talking Mutation? if so, what? Stats? Color? Or are they simply talking a dino that is merely ordinary or average?

3. Turret Mode, I understand it has something to do with dino's that can shoot projectiles, Do they just stay in one spot and do this? Would it be bad to set a Poison Wyvern to Turret Mode in a base, for tames and tribe members?

4. I have seen videos on breeding/hatching pens, most of them are huge. My question is, the eggs need to be incubated at a certain temperature, then they hatch, why keep them in that area? Why not move them to another room? Say for instance, you have a smaller room with AC's, the only purpose of this room is to hatch eggs. Then move them to a pen (Baby pen), once they move to the next stage, move them to the  Juvenile/Adolescent Room?  I do realize that this takes up valuable space. But to me it would seem much easier to keep track of progression, and/or keep a constant flow of Incubation - hatch - Juvenile.  Absolute noobiot question I know, but just curious

I know I have more questions, just can't think of them at this moment. Probably will have much more come to mind while playing, but at work I am drawing a blank. Thank you again for humoring and old person! 

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1. boss rexes have been bred up to 15k health 450 melee at birth

2. Muts is genarally meant colours, stats is hard to tell if mut or just raising boost

3. You are right poison wyvern on turret mode could be disastous to all you tames meso dilo etc not so much

4. Yes on our legacy we had small hatchery (8x10) then when baby gig/qutz/rex was born we took through normal dino door before it got to big, into main pen with behemoth.

ps the real noobiot is the one that doesnt ask lol

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1. A Boss Rex is a Rex capable of doing boss fights

2.  Mut can either be short for "mutation" which can refer to any type of mutation (it normally is specified though, i.e 3 dmg mut), or "a mut", as in a dino that has been bred a lot and has a ton of mutations stacked on it as a result.

3. Having a poison wyvern on turret mode inside your base is not a good idea. 

4. It is much, much easier to just have one large building for breeding. People breed a ton of dinos on Officials so having a small area for each dino is not a good idea. Your brontos, gigas, quetzels will not fit. 

Feel free to PM me any more questions you have, I have played the game a long time. 

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On ‎2‎/‎21‎/‎2018 at 9:39 PM, MandyH said:

1. boss rexes have been bred up to 15k health 450 melee at birth

2. Muts is genarally meant colours, stats is hard to tell if mut or just raising boost

3. You are right poison wyvern on turret mode could be disastous to all you tames meso dilo etc not so much

4. Yes on our legacy we had small hatchery (8x10) then when baby gig/qutz/rex was born we took through normal dino door before it got to big, into main pen with behemoth.

ps the real noobiot is the one that doesnt ask lol

Thank you for your reply, I was thinking that setting the poison wyvern to turret mode was bad, but now confirmed. Thank you very much!!

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On ‎2‎/‎22‎/‎2018 at 12:54 AM, [EG] Comdriver W31 said:

I have my acs in a small room (4x4) made of greenhouse walls and when egg is hatched I move baby to bigger room and that system works good enough

I am sure there might be video's of smaller hatching rooms, but while at work the network does not allow youtube. Once at home I would rather play than watch videos on playing. But I had built a pen that initially I thought would work for small to mid size dino's. But after a failed attempt to breed Thylo's I realized that it is just to small. but am thinking that it may work for only hatching eggs and then moving them to a larger area.

Thank you for your reply!

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On ‎2‎/‎22‎/‎2018 at 6:59 PM, Bobo1234 said:

1. A Boss Rex is a Rex capable of doing boss fights

2.  Mut can either be short for "mutation" which can refer to any type of mutation (it normally is specified though, i.e 3 dmg mut), or "a mut", as in a dino that has been bred a lot and has a ton of mutations stacked on it as a result.

3. Having a poison wyvern on turret mode inside your base is not a good idea. 

4. It is much, much easier to just have one large building for breeding. People breed a ton of dinos on Officials so having a small area for each dino is not a good idea. Your brontos, gigas, quetzels will not fit. 

Feel free to PM me any more questions you have, I have played the game a long time. 

Thank you for your reply!! In fact I have questions about the answers you gave.

1. I am not overly sure I can find a group to do boss fights (too new and unknown for people to let me in). How many Boss Rex's would I need to do a fight solo?

2. I have a Thylo that has around 200-300 mutations on it. Bought it from another tribe. Is this any good for breeding just to have back-ups in case one gets killed? Or if I try for different mutations (color or stats) would this be not worth the effort?

4. How do some tribes hatch lots of dinos at one time? Do they have many people in their tribe to do this? I have thought about trying, but since it is only me most of the time (I see my sons every other weekend, they play then). The amount of time required to go from baby to juvenile on some dinos would have me be online for over 24 hours straight. is there a better way?

 

I may take you up on your offer for PM if you don't mind? I know you offered, but am just making sure, I have a lot to learn, and learn something new just about each time I log on. I finally made an industrial forge, wow I love it. Just need to fill it up, lol

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On ‎2‎/‎22‎/‎2018 at 7:18 PM, felipe3232 said:

You got accurate answers, the only thing to mention is that, those huge "incubation/hatching" rooms, are meant to hold a gianormous amount of eggs/babies, try to hatch consistently 20+ rexes or 10+ gigas in a 2x2-4x4 cube...

That does make a great deal of sense, granted I am thinking on a small scale as it is just me, most of the time. So anything on a grand scale would have me playing non stop for a long time. I am good with that, but sleep and work have a way of interfering with gameplay.

Thank you for your reply!

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3 minutes ago, Ice1089 said:

Thank you for your reply!! In fact I have questions about the answers you gave.

1. I am not overly sure I can find a group to do boss fights (too new and unknown for people to let me in). How many Boss Rex's would I need to do a fight solo?

hi there, just completed broodmother (gamma) solo for first time, was surprised by how easy it was, id say 10 bred rexes with good saddles would do it. Good luck

try and get an alliance set up and go together.

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1 minute ago, Ice1089 said:

4. How do some tribes hatch lots of dinos at one time? Do they have many people in their tribe to do this? I have thought about trying, but since it is only me most of the time (I see my sons every other weekend, they play then). The amount of time required to go from baby to juvenile on some dinos would have me be online for over 24 hours straight. is there a better way?

Personally in my hatchery we keep the babies kinda close to all the AC's so we know where all babies are at one time. However once they have entered Juvenile stage we move them away but within distance of our Tek troughs as babies eat food rapidly and need to constantly be fed throughout the whole process. Juvenile and Adolescent there is no real difference at all apart from progression tracking really everything is the same through both stages. If it is just you playing then if you decide to raise several things at once I'd suggest doing only one of the food types. What I mean is only berry eaters or only meat eaters, therefore you don't have to do 2 different types of runs to keep up with the food of both types. 

 

Preparation is key. I'm not to sure on your hatchery but personally we have 10 tek troughs and 40 fridges, all filled with appropriate foods as to what we are doing. The hardest part is the baby phase but usually if you get to 9% and fill the baby with food it should make it through no problem. If you want to extend how long you can stay away from the baby, tame a load of dodos and use their eggs to make kibble which you can use for food which is one of the best solutions. 

Mass breeding is all about preparation. As long as you're prepared you'll cruise through it. 

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3 minutes ago, Dylan1602 said:

Personally in my hatchery we keep the babies kinda close to all the AC's so we know where all babies are at one time. However once they have entered Juvenile stage we move them away but within distance of our Tek troughs as babies eat food rapidly and need to constantly be fed throughout the whole process. Juvenile and Adolescent there is no real difference at all apart from progression tracking really everything is the same through both stages. If it is just you playing then if you decide to raise several things at once I'd suggest doing only one of the food types. What I mean is only berry eaters or only meat eaters, therefore you don't have to do 2 different types of runs to keep up with the food of both types. 

 

Preparation is key. I'm not to sure on your hatchery but personally we have 10 tek troughs and 40 fridges, all filled with appropriate foods as to what we are doing. The hardest part is the baby phase but usually if you get to 9% and fill the baby with food it should make it through no problem. If you want to extend how long you can stay away from the baby, tame a load of dodos and use their eggs to make kibble which you can use for food which is one of the best solutions. 

Mass breeding is all about preparation. As long as you're prepared you'll cruise through it. 

Thank you very much, this information is very helpful, I did not realize, or think about dodo kibble. I have several different egg layers (dodo, dilo, trike, stego, terror bird, yut, parasaur, bronto, anky, ptera, carno), and have been collecting and storing the eggs for a while. I have figured one day to make the kibble for use in taming. Never thought about using for feeding in the baby stage. 

Thank you once again!!

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3 minutes ago, Ice1089 said:

Thank you very much, this information is very helpful, I did not realize, or think about dodo kibble. I have several different egg layers (dodo, dilo, trike, stego, terror bird, yut, parasaur, bronto, anky, ptera, carno), and have been collecting and storing the eggs for a while. I have figured one day to make the kibble for use in taming. Never thought about using for feeding in the baby stage. 

Thank you once again!!

If you're looking at starting to breed and wanting to get good imprints as well then you'll need 2 females and a male of each of the dinos for their eggs for kibble (A list can be found online of the dinos you'll need). Dodos are the easiest to mass produce eggs as they're super easy to tame and seem to lay more eggs than anything else and their kibble is super cheap, not requiring jerky).

Also the main reason hatcheries are absolutely huge is because Ark is the game of the devil, anything and everything will kill your babies, easiest way to prevent it is to box them all inside one huge structure and hide them from the world till they're ready. Wild dinos will fly in and attack, people will snipe them, people will take all your food and let them starve... Also it gives you a general idea of how far you can put your dinos before they are out of reach of the trough.

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Keeping a daeodon in your hatchery on passive healing can be a great help if your hatching a lot off eggs at once or having problems with them dying, just keep that food stocked as it will consume it very fast.  As for your thylo with 200+ mutations on it is basically a junk dino. You don't want to breed with that one.  Breeding can be pretty complicated but if you get a mutation you want to keep its best to breed it back to a dino with no mutations.

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1 hour ago, Dylan1602 said:

If you're looking at starting to breed and wanting to get good imprints as well then you'll need 2 females and a male of each of the dinos for their eggs for kibble (A list can be found online of the dinos you'll need). Dodos are the easiest to mass produce eggs as they're super easy to tame and seem to lay more eggs than anything else and their kibble is super cheap, not requiring jerky).

Also the main reason hatcheries are absolutely huge is because Ark is the game of the devil, anything and everything will kill your babies, easiest way to prevent it is to box them all inside one huge structure and hide them from the world till they're ready. Wild dinos will fly in and attack, people will snipe them, people will take all your food and let them starve... Also it gives you a general idea of how far you can put your dinos before they are out of reach of the trough.

Very useful information, I have read about imprinting, have not tried it as of yet. I have so much to learn...

Thank you!

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8 minutes ago, DizzyDo said:

Keeping a daeodon in your hatchery on passive healing can be a great help if your hatching a lot off eggs at once or having problems with them dying, just keep that food stocked as it will consume it very fast.  As for your thylo with 200+ mutations on it is basically a junk dino. You don't want to breed with that one.  Breeding can be pretty complicated but if you get a mutation you want to keep its best to breed it back to a dino with no mutations.

That is interesting, passive healing. I had not thought of that, or read about it yet. I am thinking more research is needed. Breeding/hatching does sound complicated, I have heard that it opens up another level of the game and is fun. Right now seems very challenging, I am looking forward to trying it, but at the same time, am sure there is going to be a huge learning curve involved till I get it sort of right.

 

Thanks again!

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14 minutes ago, Ice1089 said:

Very useful information, I have read about imprinting, have not tried it as of yet. I have so much to learn...

Thank you!

If you have anymore questions don't be afraid to send me a message, I'm more than happy to help with anything you would like to know about. Breeding related or just generally game related.

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28 minutes ago, TheBanefulBaron said:

How do I post in the forums, I'm kinda new to the forums and I couldn't figure out how to post ?

In the forum you would like to post in, their should be a "Start new topic" button at the top of the forum window. Just post the question in there. As an early bird, I just got moved from that to member. There is a max number of posts one can do in a 24 hr period. I did not know that. and am not sure of the max number of posts.  I hope this helps a little.

 

Welcome to the forums!

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10 minutes ago, Ice1089 said:

In the forum you would like to post in, their should be a "Start new topic" button at the top of the forum window. Just post the question in there. As an early bird, I just got moved from that to member. There is a max number of posts one can do in a 24 hr period. I did not know that. and am not sure of the max number of posts.  I hope this helps a little.

 

Welcome to the forums!

Thanks, I just made a post though and it said it got moved, what does that mean?

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28 minutes ago, TheBanefulBaron said:

Thanks, I just made a post though and it said it got moved, what does that mean?

It means that what you posted could be better answered or seen in a different area of the forums. I had one post I thought I was putting in a "General Discussion" area, but in fact that forum was under the Workshop area. A moderator saw that the post could be better served somewhere else, and moved it. I can be hard to know where the right area to post is, but after a while you will get the hang of it.

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On 2/26/2018 at 10:15 AM, Ice1089 said:

Thank you for your reply!! In fact I have questions about the answers you gave.

1. I am not overly sure I can find a group to do boss fights (too new and unknown for people to let me in). How many Boss Rex's would I need to do a fight solo?

2. I have a Thylo that has around 200-300 mutations on it. Bought it from another tribe. Is this any good for breeding just to have back-ups in case one gets killed? Or if I try for different mutations (color or stats) would this be not worth the effort?

4. How do some tribes hatch lots of dinos at one time? Do they have many people in their tribe to do this? I have thought about trying, but since it is only me most of the time (I see my sons every other weekend, they play then). The amount of time required to go from baby to juvenile on some dinos would have me be online for over 24 hours straight. is there a better way?

 

I may take you up on your offer for PM if you don't mind? I know you offered, but am just making sure, I have a lot to learn, and learn something new just about each time I log on. I finally made an industrial forge, wow I love it. Just need to fill it up, lol

1. You probably will need multiple people and rexes will good saddles and good stats. Boss fights are end game so don't worry about them too much right now

2. If you just want thylas then yes. If you want to craft your own breedline, then no.

3.  I am in a fairly big tribe and we have a lot of allies and a lot of people who breed. Once you get good stats on a dino, then you start making more siblings with the same stats, then you breed en mass.

I play Official PvP so things are different. I assume you are playing PvE.

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