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Campi

Breeding 101

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1 hour ago, Campi said:

Pre-Tame Values don't help. You need to compare with the values of the parents after taming but before leveling them up. First reason: Wild-Stat-Points can give a different amount to the stats than tamed ones and the pre-tame stats don't include the points that got added from taming efficiency.

So pre tame stats just show what kind of breed you'll have (stat wise), and post tame pre points is what the baby can get? 

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Let's go with an example:

You have a wild level 150 Rex

Health 35 points (8800.1)
Stamina 20 points (1260)
Oxygen 20 points (450)
Food 20 points (9000)
Weight 20 points (700)
Damage 20 points (243.4)
Speed 15 points

If you would see those points (values) pre-tame you have a good chance that post-tame health will be strong.

Now if you get a perfect tame it will be level 224. That means 74 additional points will get randomly distributed around. So an average about 10 points per stat (can be unevenly also).

To make it easier lets assume you are not completely perfect and got a 220 with completely average distribution of +10 points in each stat.

That means the damage-value after taming will be 30 points with 302.2 So if you would have written down 243.4 you would be surprised by a baby with 302.2 :)

To summarize: Pre-Tame CAN give you a preview of what the tame will end up after the tame so you can decide if you tame it out or let it go free before you invest time and kibble (average stats vs. lots of points in one stat you desire). But for breeding you are only interested in post-tame-stats before you start leveling the dino. Those are the stats which will get inherited down the line to the offspring.

 

PS: If you don't have perfect nearly 100% taming efficiency that comes also into play for the meele:

On a Rex:
30 points with 100% taming efficiency are 302.2 meele 
30 points with 50% taming efficiency are 279.6 meele
In both cases the offspring will have 302.2 meele because babies always count as 100% taming efficiency (see this as kind of a bonus for breeding if you are not able to tame 100% efficient for some reasons)

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On ‎2‎/‎16‎/‎2018 at 1:46 PM, ItzGreenDawg said:

try using standard foundations instead of fence foundations, that way they snap together. As far as focus I feel ya, there's a lot to do in ark, thats why its best to team up with people that counter you. Some love breeding, some love taming, some love building, others love farming/collecting. No one person can do it all, find something you like and do it, recruit or join a tribe to find others that like doing the things you don't have time to do.

Very good point about foundations, I did not think of that. I will have to revamp the pen to see if that helps. Thank you. :) 

I am in a small tribe, (my son and me, hopefully soon my other son as well. Although I will need another Xbox for all of us to play together). However I only see them every other weekend. They don't have an Xbox at their Moms. So during the time that they are not at my house. I try to get some things set-up so that they can play or do whatever.

 

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12 hours ago, Campi said:

Let's go with an example:

You have a wild level 150 Rex

Health 35 points (8800.1)
Stamina 20 points (1260)
Oxygen 20 points (450)
Food 20 points (9000)
Weight 20 points (700)
Damage 20 points (243.4)
Speed 15 points

If you would see those points (values) pre-tame you have a good chance that post-tame health will be strong.

Now if you get a perfect tame it will be level 224. That means 74 additional points will get randomly distributed around. So an average about 10 points per stat (can be unevenly also).

To make it easier lets assume you are not completely perfect and got a 220 with completely average distribution of +10 points in each stat.

That means the damage-value after taming will be 30 points with 302.2 So if you would have written down 243.4 you would be surprised by a baby with 302.2 :)

To summarize: Pre-Tame CAN give you a preview of what the tame will end up after the tame so you can decide if you tame it out or let it go free before you invest time and kibble (average stats vs. lots of points in one stat you desire). But for breeding you are only interested in post-tame-stats before you start leveling the dino. Those are the stats which will get inherited down the line to the offspring.

 

PS: If you don't have perfect nearly 100% taming efficiency that comes also into play for the meele:

On a Rex:
30 points with 100% taming efficiency are 302.2 meele 
30 points with 50% taming efficiency are 279.6 meele
In both cases the offspring will have 302.2 meele because babies always count as 100% taming efficiency (see this as kind of a bonus for breeding if you are not able to tame 100% efficient for some reasons)

Thanks for the examples. Clarifies it better. 

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This is my setup for breeding my Argies and T-Rex. I built this to be not just functional but also decorative as well. As far as the Argies getting out in the previous post this design has no possibility of that also the T-Rex pin needs to be 3 walls high. I will discus this topic and my design in an upcoming video if you want to check out my very early stage beginning youtube channel

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5ZFFgFkVo828Tn0RLabtrg

My T-Rex pin is also mentioned in my previous video

 

BreedingPinOp.jpg

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On 3/4/2018 at 3:34 AM, Zoidbergler said:

This is my setup for breeding my Argies and T-Rex. I built this to be not just functional but also decorative as well. As far as the Argies getting out in the previous post this design has no possibility of that also the T-Rex pin needs to be 3 walls high. I will discus this topic and my design in an upcoming video if you want to check out my very early stage beginning youtube channel

The breeding pen is way to small. One male can breed with many females at the same time. So make it bigger with compartments to place many females around the male.

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The breeding pen is way to small. One male can breed with many females at the same time. So make it bigger with compartments to place many females around the male.
I don't disagree, it really depends on what ur purpose for breeding is for. Im working on combining stats of particular rexes together so I'm only breeding one pair at a time and hatching several eggs only to raise the one that I'm looking for. But once I mutate strategically and get to where I want then I would probably build one like what ur talking about.

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I usually go without a pen and the stop-all whistle spam method this way i dont have to move too many rexes around. I have the females in a line and just move the lucky "male of the day" behind them in the center and start breeding. The rexes are all on highest follow distance and i put the ones that get to breed first on follow then on wandering and add them to an empty whistle group. When everything is set up its "u-spamming time" using the whistle group. After all the eggs dropped its one time follow all (J) which will only apply to the whistle group so they don't run away while i take them off wandering again :)

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16 hours ago, Campi said:

I usually go without a pen and the stop-all whistle spam method this way i dont have to move too many rexes around. I have the females in a line and just move the lucky "male of the day" behind them in the center and start breeding. The rexes are all on highest follow distance and i put the ones that get to breed first on follow then on wandering and add them to an empty whistle group. When everything is set up its "u-spamming time" using the whistle group. After all the eggs dropped its one time follow all (J) which will only apply to the whistle group so they don't run away while i take them off wandering again :)

Wait for when S+ hits official. Hopefully they will include the hitching post, which makes dinos to not move. No spamming of stop whistle anymore. ^^

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hi all and thanks Campi.

 

Your Guide is realy nice, but i have a question.

I have 2 Ankylos the male have 59 Points in melee  :D  and the Female have 42 Points. I'm making a lot of eggs so I get a mutation on damage.

My quetion is when i become a mutation frome the male with two points how do i get even better stats?.

My ankylo have than 61 points and a better found in the wildniss is not possible. Or must i bread with the 61 points anky and hope for a mutation to 63 `?

 

Thanks for answers :D and

Sorry for my bad english

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If you don't have mutation points on the 59 and 42 yet then breed them until you also get 59 on at least one female with no mutation points (both counters 0 in ancestry). Now use the 61 mutated one (which has mutation counter of 1) and breed it with the 59 of the opposite sex.

- If the child has 59 you depose of it.
- If it has 61 you keep one male and all females (so you can get more eggs by breeding with the 59 male)
- If it has 63 you got a mutation and definitely keep it for further breeding

As soon as you got the 63 you retire the 61s. The 63 now will have a mutation counter of 2 which you breed again with the base 59 ones of oposite sex.

- If the child has 59 you depose of it.
- If it has 63 you keep one male again and all females (so you can get more eggs by breeding with the 59 male)
- If it has 65 you got a new mutation and keep it again and retire the 63s

and so on. 

 

You only need one male since those have no cooldown but the more females you have the more eggs you can produce in a short time which will increase the chances for more mutations obviously.

Also you don't have to get a female with 59 to start with since any unmutated female will do for breeding with the 61 mutated one. The only reason i do this usually is for when i don't have a mutated one yet the chances are higher if the mutation hits to be of profit since a mutation on the female to 44 will be of no use.

In addition I usually breed for high overall level in addition to single stats which means i don't focus on one stat but combine all 7 top stats i own into one breeding pair before i start with mutations. Only exception is when the sum of the highest stats gets close to 378 i leave out one of them (usually speed since it's useless anyways + oxygen on flyers) -> 378 + 71 levelups is still below the 450 where they would get deleted on officials.

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Originally it was thought that by breeding a >20 counter with a <20 counter animal could get mutations also on the stats of the >20 one but recent decompilings seem to hint that thats not the case. So currently it looks like you can only improve the stats of a >20 by breeding in higher stats from another line of rexes which already have higher ones.

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Yes. If you are working long term (very long term) then you should work on one stat per breeding line but keep in mind you will probably need thousands of ingame hours to get really high numbers through mutation-breeding :)

Edited by Campi

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On 4/5/2018 at 4:34 AM, TheJoker957 said:

Thanks for the great info! I learned a lot! 

I have one question. I have rexes with several thousand mutations on them. Is it possible to still improve the stats somehow? 

You do can improve the stats, say you have a male rex (60 points on all levels )full of muts 123000/20 on both sides, you can clean 1 side, mate it with a tamed fem get several eggs hatched at the same time and raise the male that carried all the 60 points stats , now you go to the ancestry list and see 1 side has 0/20 and the on the other side 246000/20

Now you get your new male half clean and mate with many low lvl tamed female rexes and let rng do its thing.

The mutation chance is the same even when the female rex is low lvl.

you will at some point get a baby with 01/20 - 246000/20 and one stat=61

If i am wrong about this mutation hunt technique please let me know although this has been proved effective several times in my tribe with several good muts received.

****This is completely different to the technique of getting clean lvls added to increase stats without muts, I really don't even bother with the clean breeding technique.

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